Your first motorcycle matters far more than your next one: it shapes your riding habits, your confidence and whether you end up loving motorcycling at all. The most common mistake is starting on a bike that is too powerful, too heavy or too tall, telling yourself "I'll get used to it". In this guide we go through, in order, what to think about when choosing your first motorcycle: intended use, licence, weight and seat height, power, safety equipment, budget and how to buy.
1. First, pin down what you will use it for
- City only, commuting: a 125–160 cc automatic scooter. No gears, storage under the seat, low fuel consumption and the most practical choice in traffic. For example, the Honda PCX 125 uses 2.1 litres per 100 km and weighs 132 kg, according to the manufacturer.
- City plus weekend escapes: a 250–400 cc naked bike or a small adventure bike. Comfortable on the motorway and still agile in town.
- Dreaming of long journeys: even as a first bike, a 300–500 cc adventure bike makes sense; upright riding position, wind protection, big tank.
- Dirt roads: a light enduro. Learning off-road on a heavy adventure bike is both hard and expensive.
For more detailed comparisons by use, see the guides 125 cc or 250 cc?, choosing a motorcycle for commuting and your first adventure bike.
2. What does your licence allow?
The most concrete limit on your first bike is your licence class:
- B licence (held for at least 3 years): motorcycles up to 125 cc under certain conditions.
- A1: up to 125 cc and 11 kW.
- A2: maximum 35 kW (about 47 hp). Most of the 250–500 cc class falls within this.
- A: unrestricted; you need to be at least 24 to obtain it directly, or step up after 2 years on an A2.
Details are in the licence guide. For options on a B licence see the best 125s for a B licence, and for A2 see the cheapest A2-compatible motorcycles. If you are over 18, going straight to an A2 widens your choice of first bike considerably.
3. Weight and seat height matter more than power
What troubles a new rider is not speed but low-speed manoeuvring and the moment of stopping. At a standstill, at least the tips of the toes of both feet should touch the ground. Roughly:
| Height | Comfortable seat height |
|---|---|
| Under 160 cm | 770 mm and below |
| 160–170 cm | around 800 mm |
| 170–180 cm | up to 830 mm |
| Over 180 cm | 850 mm and above is no problem |
Seat width also matters: at the same height, a narrow seat lets your feet reach the ground more easily. As for weight, under 180–190 kg is ideal for a first bike. When a heavy bike leans to one side at a stop it becomes hard to hold; pushing it backwards in a car park, stopping on a slope and turning in a narrow street are the real difficulties for a new rider.
A few examples from the catalogue (manufacturer data):
| Model | Licence | Power | Weight | Seat |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Honda CB125F | A1 | 11.7 hp | 117 kg | 789 mm |
| CFMoto 250NK | A2 | 27.5 hp | 151 kg | 795 mm |
| Honda CB500 Hornet | A2 | 46.9 hp | 192 kg | 785 mm |
| Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 | A2 | 39.4 hp | 196 kg | 825 mm |
If you are short, the low-seat motorcycles guide will help.
4. Power: how much is enough?
For the city, 10–15 hp is enough; for comfortable 120 km/h on the motorway, 25–40 hp. The A2 limit of 35 kW (47 hp) is already plenty of power for a new rider. Bikes with 70 hp or more are unforgiving; a brief mistake with the throttle will lift the front wheel or slide the rear tyre. When judging power, take weight into account too: 30 hp on a light bike can feel as lively as 45 hp on a heavy one. If the units confuse you, see the guide to hp, kW, PS and Nm.
5. ABS is a must
ABS, which prevents the wheel from locking in an emergency stop, is the one piece of equipment that directly reduces crashes among new riders. Some models under 125 cc only have CBS (linked front-rear brakes); choose one with ABS if you can. Each model's page lists its braking equipment. For correct braking technique see the braking technique guide.
6. Scooter or geared?
A scooter is the easiest to learn: no gears, no clutch, storage under the seat. A geared motorcycle, with its larger wheels and steadier handling, feels more secure outside town and teaches the fundamental skills of riding better. If you will only commute in town, a scooter; if you plan weekend trips and rides for pleasure, a geared 250 or an A2-class bike makes sense. If you want a big bike without gears, see the guide to automatic motorcycles.
7. New or second-hand?
Your first bike will most likely be dropped once. So a clean second-hand bike reduces the stress of falling and sells after 1–2 years with little loss. If you buy new, a crash bar (side protection) and handguards should be fitted from day one. For second-hand, see our checklist, and for a value estimate the second-hand value tool. If you are buying new, we explain what to watch for at the dealer in the guide to buying a motorcycle from a dealer.
8. Don't spend the whole budget on the bike
Set aside 15–20% of your total budget for gear: helmet, jacket, gloves, boots and trousers. Riding without gear is not like driving a car with only a helmet on; the first things to hit the tarmac are your hands and knees. See the gear guide for details. Also don't forget the fixed annual costs: annual motor vehicle tax (MTV), compulsory traffic insurance, maintenance and tyres. Work these out in advance with the cost calculator; for MTV amounts see the 2026 MTV table.
9. What to do in the first months
- Practise low-speed manoeuvres, emergency braking and figures of eight in an empty car park.
- Avoid heavy traffic, night riding and rain in the first weeks.
- On a new bike, follow the running-in rules: running-in guide.
- Learn where to look and how to control speed in corners: cornering technique.
- Make checking tyre pressure, chain and oil level a habit.
Conclusion
When choosing your first motorcycle, set your priorities in this order: intended use, licence class, weight and seat height, ABS, then power. If you start on a bike that is light, lets you put your feet down comfortably, has ABS and suits your licence, you will learn faster and enjoy motorcycling more. Be sure to set aside part of your budget for gear.
Frequently asked questions
How many cc is right for a first motorcycle?
For the city, 125 cc is enough. If you will also ride out of town and on the motorway, a bike between 250 and 500 cc, at or below the A2 limit, is a balanced choice for a new rider.
Can I buy a big motorcycle as my first one?
It is not recommended. Heavy, powerful bikes are unforgiving in low-speed manoeuvres and with sudden throttle mistakes. It is safer to gain experience on a lighter bike for a few thousand kilometres and then move up.
Should a first motorcycle be new or second-hand?
A clean second-hand bike causes less stress when a new rider has the inevitable small drops, and it sells with little loss. If you buy new, have a crash bar and handguards fitted.
How much budget should I set aside for my first motorcycle?
On top of the bike's price, set aside about 15–20% of your total budget for gear, and work out the annual MTV, insurance and maintenance costs in advance.