Checklist for buying a second-hand motorcycle

A 25-point check and paperwork list you can do yourself before a professional inspection.

When buying a second-hand motorcycle, the biggest risks are concealed crash damage and neglected maintenance. Do the checks below with the engine cold; if the seller has warmed the engine up beforehand, they may be hiding something. This list is no substitute for a professional inspection, but it lets you decide whether it is worth going to an inspection or a service centre. Bring a torch, a clean cloth and, if possible, a friend who knows motorcycles; do the inspection in daylight and dry weather.

Before you go to see it

Study the advert and photos carefully: can you see scuff marks on the lever ends, mirrors and exhaust?
Ask the seller on the phone: how many owners, are there service records, has it ever crashed, why are they selling?
Look at other adverts for the same model, year and mileage. If the price is noticeably low, question the reason.
Calculate the approximate value from the new price, age and mileage: second-hand value tool. The logic of the calculation is in the second-hand value guide.

Paperwork

Do the chassis and engine numbers on the registration document match those on the motorcycle?
Run a vehicle enquiry on e-Devlet (damage, lien, seizure). The TRAMER damage record can be checked with the plate and the registration document serial number.
Is the seller the registered owner? If not, a power of attorney is required.
The sale is made at a notary or an authorised sales point; don't make hand-to-hand "we'll transfer the registration later" agreements. For the process and fees, see the guide to selling a motorcycle at a notary.
Inspection date: for a new motorcycle the first inspection is at the end of the 3rd year, then every 2 years. A late fee is added for a motorcycle whose inspection has lapsed.
Service invoices and maintenance records: are the dates and mileage figures consistent? We explain how to read them in the guide to mileage and service history.

Signs of a crash

Handlebar ends, mirrors, clutch and brake levers, gear lever, seat edge: are there scuffs and scratches? Are the lever ends shortened or new?
Scuffing on the engine covers (crankcase) and exhaust.
With the handlebar perfectly straight, is the front wheel straight too? If not, the fork or handlebar may be bent.
Cracks or paint differences at the frame welds.
Scratches and oil leaks (seal leaks) on the fork tubes.
Colour differences on the fairing panels, broken and glued tabs, missing screws.
Bent or cracked wheels or signs of welding; loose spokes on spoked wheels.
Scratches on the headlight and tail light lenses or recently replaced parts.

Mechanicals

Cold start: does it start first time, is the idle smooth, is there blue (oil burning) or dense white smoke from the exhaust?
Engine sound: at idle and with a little throttle, is there any ticking, metallic knocking or irregular noise?
Leaks: oil marks under the engine, at the crankcase gasket and the cylinder head; coolant leaks at the radiator and hoses.
Chain and sprockets: if the teeth are pointed and hooked, a replacement set is due soon. If the chain lifts away from the rear sprocket when pulled, it is worn out. Details: when to replace the chain set.
The DOT age of the tyres (last 4 digits: week and year). A tyre over 5 years old is grounds for haggling. Reading and replacement rules: when to replace tyres.
Brake discs: if there is a pronounced step at the edge, they have worn thin. Pad thickness. See the brake pad guide.
Brake fluid: if the fluid in the reservoir window has darkened, it has not been changed for a long time.
Bearings: put the motorcycle on a stand and move the wheel and handlebar back and forth; there should be no play.
Suspension: press down on the front and rear of the motorcycle and let go; it should spring once and stop, not keep bouncing.
Battery: is the starter sound strong? Battery age and state of charge. Details: battery care.
All electrics: headlight, indicators, tail light, horn, dashboard lights, and if fitted the ABS warning lamp (it should light on start-up and then go out).
Is the mileage consistent with general wear (lever rubbers, footpeg rubbers, seat)?
Modifications: is there a replaced exhaust, electronic tampering, extra wiring? Does the seller have the original parts?

Test ride

Does the clutch slip (revs rise with the throttle but speed does not increase)?
Do the gears change smoothly, is neutral easy to find?
When you loosen your grip on the handlebar slightly, does the motorcycle pull to one side?
Is there any vibration under braking (warped disc)?
On a straight road and in a gentle bend, is the motorcycle stable, or is there any wobble at the front?
When accelerating and when you close the throttle, is there any knocking from the chain?

For a test ride the seller will usually ask for ID or a deposit. If your licence does not cover this motorcycle, don't take a test ride; check whether the motorcycle can be ridden on your licence in the licence guide.

Haggling and working out the costs

Note the faults you see and calculate the upcoming costs. Concrete items that work in haggling:

Old or worn tyres: tyre prices
A chain set that is due for replacement: chain set prices
Worn-out pads: pad prices
Overdue periodic service, oil and filter
Broken or missing parts, a missing second key

For the motorcycle's annual MTV, insurance and maintenance costs, see the cost calculator.

When buying

Make the payment during the notary procedure or by secure payment methods; a deposit before the notary and a large upfront payment are risky.
Take both keys, the owner's manual and the service invoices.
Don't ride on the road without compulsory traffic insurance. Insurance and kasko: insurance guide.
After buying, have the oil, filter, brake fluid and chain serviced to set a fresh starting point.

If you are buying an expensive motorcycle, have it checked at an authorised service centre or by a motorcycle inspector. Be suspicious of a motorcycle with no service records that is described as "never dropped" but has new lever ends.

Research the model's chronic problems

Every model may have known weak points: an electrical fault in a particular year, a frequently replaced part, or a problem for which the manufacturer issued a recall. Before going to see the motorcycle, research recalls and chronic faults along with the model name, and read the experiences of owners of the model. You can ask the authorised service centre whether recall work has been carried out, using the motorcycle's chassis number. This information shows you where to look during the inspection and also helps in haggling.

Ask the seller for the invoice for any recent maintenance and, if there is one, the warranty document; second-hand motorcycles with a warranty still running give the buyer extra assurance.

Finally, put the agreement you reach with the seller and the condition of the motorcycle at handover in writing; verbal promises not stated in the notary sale cannot be proved afterwards.

Conclusion

The order for a second-hand purchase should be: first paperwork and damage record, then a visual and mechanical check on a cold engine, then a test ride and finally haggling. Count the faults as costs and reflect them in the price, and in any doubtful case don't avoid the cost of an inspection. If you can't agree with the seller, there are certainly other adverts for the same model.

Frequently asked questions

How do I check the damage record of a second-hand motorcycle?

With the vehicle enquiry services on e-Devlet you can see the lien and seizure status, and with the plate and registration document serial number you can see the damage record through TRAMER.

Why should the engine be cold when looking at a second-hand motorcycle?

A cold start reveals problems with the battery, starter, fuel system and engine sound. On a pre-warmed engine these symptoms can be hidden.

What mileage is acceptable for a second-hand motorcycle?

Mileage alone is not decisive. A high-mileage motorcycle with documented regular maintenance can be better than a neglected low-mileage one. Judge the mileage together with the service records and part wear.

Is it necessary to have an inspection done?

Yes, for expensive motorcycles, if you suspect a crash or if there are no service records. A check at an authorised service centre or by a motorcycle inspector is cheap compared with the large costs that may appear later.