Do not let riding a geared motorcycle for the first time frighten you: the position and order of the controls settle in within a few hours, and the rest is a matter of repetition. In this guide we explain, step by step, the controls of a geared motorcycle, starting the engine, pulling away by releasing the clutch, changing gear and stopping safely. This article is a beginner's guide; to ride legally you must hold a licence suited to the class of your motorcycle, and you should make your first attempts in a large, empty area closed to traffic.
First: licence and gear
The penalty for riding a motorcycle without a licence is 40,000 TL, and the same penalty applies to the vehicle owner who allows it. The classes and process are in the licence guide, and course and exam fees on the licence page. Even on your first ride, wear a fastened helmet, gloves, boots that wrap the ankle and a thick jacket with protectors; in your first attempts you can fall over even at low speed. Details are in the compulsory gear guide.
Get to know the controls
| Control | Location | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Throttle | Right grip | Revs rise when you twist it towards you |
| Front brake | Right-hand lever | Provides most of the stopping power |
| Rear brake | Right foot pedal | Balanced slowing and low-speed control |
| Clutch | Left-hand lever | Disconnects the engine from the rear wheel |
| Gears | Left foot pedal | Pressing down drops one gear, lifting up raises one gear |
On most geared motorcycles first gear is at the bottom and neutral (N) lies between first and second: pressing down takes you to first, lifting halfway from there takes you to neutral, and lifting fully takes you to second. For example, the Turkish owner's manual Honda prepared for its CB125F (SC74 type) states that the transmission has five forward gears, one down and four up. Learn your own motorcycle's layout from its manual.
Starting the engine
The sequence in Honda's CB125F manual is a good example for most modern fuel-injected engines:
- Turn the ignition key to the on position.
- Put the gearbox in neutral; the N light comes on in the instrument panel. Alternatively, with the side stand up, you can also start the engine in gear by pulling the clutch lever in fully.
- With the throttle closed, press the starter button.
- If the engine does not start within five seconds, release the starter, switch the ignition off, wait 10 seconds for the battery to recover and try again.
The same manual reminds you that running the engine at fast idle for a long time and revving it in neutral can damage the engine and the exhaust system. If you select a gear with the side stand down, the engine stalls; this is not a fault but the job of the safety switch. If you have a carburettor engine, see your manual for using the choke on a cold start.
First pull-away: the clutch biting point
The key to pulling away is to find the clutch's "biting point": the point, as you release the lever, where the engine's power begins to transfer to the wheel. Practise first without using the throttle:
- Sit on the motorcycle, put both feet on the ground and hold the motorcycle upright.
- Pull the clutch lever in fully and select first gear.
- Release the lever very slowly. At some point the engine note drops slightly and the motorcycle wants to move forward; that is the biting point.
- Hold the lever at that point and let the motorcycle creep forward; then pull the lever in again and stop. Repeat this many times without lifting your feet off the ground.
- When you are comfortable, add very little throttle at the biting point, keep releasing the lever slowly and take your feet up onto the footpegs.
If you release the lever suddenly, the engine stalls or the motorcycle jumps. Stalling is normal; pull in the clutch, go into neutral and restart. Opening the throttle too much and releasing the lever quickly makes the motorcycle lurch forward; in your first attempts, always use only a little throttle.
Changing up and down
- Changing up: Close the throttle, pull in the clutch, lift the gear pedal upward with a firm movement, and open the throttle again as you release the clutch. As you get used to this movement it drops to under a second.
- When? When the engine note rises and the rev counter reaches the middle range. At first, change at calm revs without straining the engine.
- Changing down: While slowing, close the throttle, pull in the clutch, press the pedal once and release the clutch smoothly. If you drop into a low gear at too high a speed and release the clutch suddenly, the rear wheel can lock and skid.
- Before stopping: Change down through the gears in order as you slow; be in first gear when you stop so that you can pull away straight away if needed.
Braking and stopping
Most of the stopping power comes from the front brake; but grabbing the front brake lever suddenly and hard can lock the front wheel, especially on a motorcycle without ABS. The right habit is to use both brakes together and progressively: squeeze the lever lightly first, then increase the force as the load transfers onto the front wheel.
- Close the throttle.
- Apply the front and rear brakes together, progressively.
- As speed drops, pull in the clutch so the engine does not stall.
- Just before stopping, ease off the front brake lever slightly; the motorcycle stops smoothly.
- When you stop, put your left foot down first; keep your right foot on the rear brake.
Do not brake hard mid-corner; finish braking before the bend, while the motorcycle is upright. We covered emergency braking and ABS in detail in the braking technique guide.
Eyes, handlebar and low speed
- Look where you want to go. The motorcycle goes where your eyes go. Do not look at the front wheel or the ground right in front of you; lift your head and see ahead.
- Do not grip the handlebar. Keep your arms loose and elbows slightly bent; support the motorcycle by gripping the tank with your knees.
- Clutch and rear brake at low speed. In tight turns and at walking pace, you hold the clutch at the biting point and adjust speed with the rear brake; grabbing the front brake at low speed with the steering turned can topple the motorcycle.
- Counter-steering in bends: Above a certain speed, to lean the motorcycle you push the handlebar lightly towards the side you want to turn to. Details are in the cornering technique guide.
A practice plan for the first week
- Day 1: The biting point, pulling away and stopping in an empty area. Pushing the motorcycle with the engine off and putting it on the stand.
- Day 2: Changing between first and second gear, wide circles and figure-of-eights.
- Day 3: Progressive braking, stopping on a target line, tight turns at low speed.
- Day 4 onwards: Short rides at quiet times on streets you know with little traffic.
During this period, the first motorcycle guide will help you get to know your motorcycle, and if you bought a new one, the running-in guide and what to do after buying a motorcycle. If you do not want to deal with a clutch, you can also look at automatic-gearbox options.
Conclusion
The essence of riding a geared motorcycle is three habits: release the clutch slowly at the biting point, change gear with the throttle closed and with firm movements, and use the brakes progressively and on both wheels together. Spend your first days in an empty area, keep your eyes up ahead and go out in traffic only when pulling away and stopping have become reflex.
Frequently asked questions
Is learning to ride a motorcycle hard?
The basics of pulling away, changing gear and stopping usually settle in after a few practice sessions. Riding confidently in traffic takes time and repetition; make short, calm rides in the first weeks.
How do you release the clutch?
Slowly, pausing for a moment at the biting point. When the engine note drops and the motorcycle wants to move forward, add a little throttle and keep releasing the lever.
Which gear should I wait in when stopped?
For short waits, staying in first gear with the clutch pulled in lets you pull away straight away if needed. For long waits you can put it in neutral and release the clutch.
Do you press the clutch when braking?
Yes, when the speed has dropped and the engine is approaching the point of stalling. When braking at high speed you do not need to pull in the clutch; engine braking helps you slow down.