The area where your motorcycle touches the road is, on each tyre, roughly the size of a credit card. All the braking, throttle and cornering forces are transferred to the road through this small area. That makes the tyre far more critical than on a car; a half-worn or hardened tyre shows the difference immediately in rain and in corners. In this guide we group when to change your tyres under four headings: tread depth, age, damage and pressure. If you want to decode the codes on the sidewall, first take a look at the tyre size reading guide.
1. Tread depth and the wear indicator
On motorcycle tyres there are small raised bars inside the tread grooves. These are called wear indicators (TWI), and their position is marked on the sidewall with a small triangle or the letters "TWI". If the tread surface has worn down to the level of this bar, the tyre has reached its replacement limit.
In Turkey the legal minimum for cars is known to be 1.6 mm; sources give different figures for the value applied at inspection for motorcycles. Whichever limit applies, the practical rule is this: with a tyre approaching the wear indicator, water dispersal in the rain falls seriously. Changing before it reaches the indicator, especially before going into the rainy season, is the safe choice.
How is tread depth measured?
- Tread depth gauge: measure the main groove in the centre of the tyre with a cheap depth gauge or the depth rod of a calliper.
- Measure at several points: turn the tyre and look at no fewer than three different places. The rear tyre wears faster in the centre.
- Centre versus sides: if the tread has decreased in the centre but there is plenty at the sides, the tyre has started to square off.
2. Squaring off and flat wear
On motorcycles mostly ridden on straight roads and motorways, the centre of the rear tyre flattens. Seen from the side, the tyre shows a profile that is flat in the middle rather than round. Even if the tread depth still looks sufficient, as you lean into a corner this tyre gives a sudden "dropping" feeling at the transition from the flat section to the round section, and the motorcycle struggles to close the corner. If there is clear squaring off, it is time to change the tyre.
On the front tyre, stepped wear like a sawtooth (cupping) can be seen. The cause is usually low pressure, worn suspension or a habit of hard braking. If you feel different sensations when running your hand over the tyre in two directions, there is stepped wear.
3. Tyre age: a tyre with plenty of tread ages too
The rubber in a tyre hardens over time through the effect of oxygen, sunlight and heat, even if it is not used. A hard tyre grips less, especially in the cold and on wet surfaces. On little-used motorcycles standing in the garage, this problem is overlooked because there is plenty of tread depth.
- Find out the tyre's age from the last four digits of the DOT code on the sidewall: for example, 1822 is the 18th week of 2022.
- After 5 years of age, monitor the tyre closely; you are looking for fine cracks in the sidewalls and at the bottom of the tread grooves.
- Consider replacing tyres over 6 years old, whatever the tread condition. We suggest the same approach on our site's general FAQ page.
- When buying a second-hand motorcycle, tyre age is an important bargaining item. Details are in the second-hand checklist.
4. Damage: situations needing immediate replacement
- Cut, swelling or bulge on the sidewall: this means the sidewall's inner structure is damaged. It cannot be repaired; replace it immediately.
- Deep cracks: cracks visible to the eye at the bottom of the tread grooves or on the sidewall are a sign of ageing or of riding continually at low pressure.
- Pieces breaking off the tread surface: can be seen especially on rough roads and in hard acceleration.
- After repair: a small nail hole in the tread area can in some cases be repaired with a mushroom-type permanent repair; a hole in the sidewall cannot be repaired. After the plug-type temporary repair you make on the road, have the tyre checked by a tyre fitter. Carry a tyre repair kit for emergencies.
5. Tyre pressure: the habit that affects lifespan most
A tyre with low pressure flexes too much at the sidewalls, heats up and wears quickly at the edges; the motorcycle turns heavily and lazily in corners. High pressure, on the other hand, shrinks the contact patch, speeds up wear in the centre and reduces grip.
- Correct value: it is written in your motorcycle's manual, and often on the label on the swingarm or chain guard. The "max. press" value on the tyre sidewall is not the pressure to use.
- Passenger and load: the manual generally gives a higher rear pressure for two-up and loaded use.
- When to measure: measure the pressure when the tyre is cold, before going out for a ride. On a hot tyre the value appears higher.
- Frequency: at least every two weeks, and always before a long trip.
If you need to convert pressure units (bar, psi), you can use the unit converter.
How long does a tyre last?
It is not possible to give a single km value; tyre type, motorcycle power, riding style, road surface and temperature affect lifespan greatly. The general tendencies are these:
- The rear tyre runs out sooner than the front; many riders change two rear tyres in the life of one front.
- Sports and track tyres have a shorter life than touring tyres because of their soft compounds.
- On powerful motorcycles the rear tyre wears faster; hard launches speed this up noticeably.
- Hot asphalt and rough surfaces shorten life.
To include tyre costs in your annual budget you can use the cost calculation, and you can see price ranges on the motorcycle tyre page.
Care after new tyres
The surface of a new tyre has a slippery layer left over from the mould. For the first 100–200 km avoid hard braking and deep leaning, and increase the lean angle gradually. At a tyre change, don't forget to have it balanced and the valve replaced. This process is also explained in the running-in guide.
What to watch for when changing tyres
When changing a tyre, pay attention not only to the tyre but also to how the job is done. The tyre fitter should have a changing machine and balancer suitable for motorcycle tyres; with a car machine the rims can be scratched and the tyre bead damaged. At the change, check the following:
- Is the new tyre's rotation arrow facing the right way?
- Has balancing been done, and are the balance weights stuck on firmly?
- For tubeless use, has the valve been renewed?
- On the rear wheel, are chain tension and wheel alignment correct, and on the front wheel, were the brake caliper bolts and axle nut tightened to the correct torque?
- Has the tyre pressure been set to the value in the manual?
Don't forget to check the DOT date at the place you buy the tyre, and keep the invoice. When selling a second-hand motorcycle, a new-tyre invoice is a document that adds value. Don't leave the tyre change until just before a long trip; a few hundred kilometres of city use is ideal to get used to the new tyre and for the slippery surface layer to wear off.
Conclusion
Check your tyre with four questions: has the tread approached the wear indicator, is the tyre over 5–6 years old, is there cracking or swelling on the sidewall, has squaring off begun? If you answer yes to any of these, it is time to change. Measuring the pressure every two weeks when cold is the cheapest habit for extending tyre life.
Frequently asked questions
At how many km should a motorcycle tyre be changed?
There is no fixed km. It varies with tyre type, motorcycle power and riding style. Make the decision not by km but by tread depth, the wear indicator, age and damage.
Can an old tyre that has never been used still be used?
The rubber hardens even if it is not used. After 5 years of age check for cracks, and consider replacing tyres over 6 years old, whatever the tread condition.
Can I change only the rear tyre?
Yes, if the front tyre is still in good condition, only the rear can be changed. However, choosing a tyre of the same model and compatible construction is better for balanced grip.
How often should tyre pressure be checked?
At least every two weeks and before every long trip, when the tyre is cold. The correct value is written in the manual or on the label on the swingarm.