{"body":"\n<p>Running-in is the initial period in which engine parts bed in against each other. It varies by manufacturer but is generally taken to be the <b>first 1,000 km</b>. The rev limits in your own motorcycle's manual always take precedence. During this period the piston rings seat against the cylinder wall, the gearbox gears against each other and the brake pads against the discs; the tyres also lose the slippery mould-release layer on their surface. Running-in correctly helps the engine burn less oil in the long term, run more quietly and enjoy a trouble-free life. In this guide we explain step by step what to pay attention to in the first kilometres.</p>\n<h2>Why is running-in important?</h2>\n<p>On a new engine the surfaces of the parts are rough at the microscopic level. In the first kilometres these surfaces wear in a controlled way and conform to each other. Excessive load and excessive heat can leave permanent marks on the surfaces during this process; conversely, using the engine only at very low revs without loading it at all can also stop the rings seating well. So the golden rule is: <b>medium revs, varying load, avoid constant revs.</b></p>\n<h2>The first 1,000 km</h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Don't exceed <b>half</b> of maximum revs (for example 5,000–6,000 rpm on a 10,000 rpm engine).</li>\n<li>Don't ride for long periods at <b>constant revs</b>; keep changing speed and revs. So a long motorway journey in the first days is not ideal.</li>\n<li>Don't open the throttle fully, but also avoid labouring the engine at very low revs.</li>\n<li>Don't make long journeys with a heavy load and a passenger.</li>\n<li>Don't rev the engine high when it is cold; allow a short warm-up first.</li>\n<li>Don't leave it idling for long; the engine warms up more evenly while moving.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>Example staged plan</h3>\n<table>\n<tr><th>Kilometres</th><th>Recommendation</th></tr>\n<tr><td>0–300 km</td><td>Below half the rev limit, town and mixed roads, frequent changes of revs</td></tr>\n<tr><td>300–800 km</td><td>Short accelerations at revs approaching the limit, still no full throttle</td></tr>\n<tr><td>800–1,000 km</td><td>Raise the rev limit gradually, get ready for the first service</td></tr>\n<tr><td>After 1,000 km</td><td>Normal use under the conditions in the manual after the first service</td></tr>\n</table>\n<p>This table is a general approach; many manufacturers give their own km and rev stages in the manual. If the values in the manual differ from this table, follow the manual.</p>\n<h2>Gearbox and clutch</h2>\n<p>On a new gearbox the gears may change a little stiffly in the first kilometres; this is normal. Change gears with a smooth, complete movement and use all the gears. Avoid holding the clutch half-engaged for long; new clutch plates are sensitive to heat. On automatic scooters, too, avoiding hard take-offs helps the CVT belt and clutch shoes to bed in.</p>\n<h2>Brakes</h2>\n<p>New pads and discs also need a bedding-in period. In the first 100–200 km avoid very hard braking; with progressive braking from medium speed, heat and cool the pads so that they bed against the disc. During this period braking distances may be a little longer; adjust your following distance accordingly. For more on bedding in pads, see the <a href=\"/rehber/motosiklet-fren-balatasi-ne-zaman-degisir\">brake pad guide</a>.</p>\n<h2>Tyres</h2>\n<p>A new tyre has a slippery layer left over from the mould on its surface. For the first <b>100–200 km</b> avoid hard braking and deep lean angles, and increase the lean angle gradually. This rule applies not only to a new motorcycle but after every tyre change. Be extra careful on wet roads and in cold weather with new tyres. Be sure to check the tyre pressure in the first week; even if it was set at delivery, it can change in the first days. Details: <a href=\"/rehber/motosiklet-lastigi-ne-zaman-degisir\">tyre guide</a>.</p>\n<h2>Chain</h2>\n<p>A new chain stretches a little in the first kilometres. Check the chain tension within the first 500 km and have it adjusted if necessary; the service centre will also do this adjustment at the first service. Start the lubrication routine from the beginning: <a href=\"/rehber/zincir\">chain maintenance guide</a>.</p>\n<h2>Oil level and leak check</h2>\n<p>During the running-in period the engine may consume slightly more oil than normal. Every few hundred kilometres check the oil level with the motorcycle upright; look for leaks under the engine and at the gaskets. For oil types and checking the level, see the <a href=\"/rehber/motosiklet-yagi-nasil-secilir\">engine oil guide</a>.</p>\n<h2>First service</h2>\n<p>Most manufacturers require a first service at 1,000 km (oil and filter change, bolt and adjustment checks). Have it done at an authorised service centre for the warranty and keep the invoice. At the first service the following are usually carried out:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Engine oil and oil filter change (the metal particles in the first oil are drained)</li>\n<li>Torque check of bolts and connections</li>\n<li>Chain tension and lubrication</li>\n<li>Brake, clutch and throttle adjustments</li>\n<li>Tyre pressure, lights and electrics check</li>\n<li>Software update and fault code check, if applicable</li>\n</ul>\n<p>For warranty terms and the service process, see the guide to <a href=\"/rehber/yetkili-servis-bakimi-garanti-ve-bayiden-motor-alirken-dikkat\">buying a motorcycle from a dealer and warranty</a>.</p>\n<h2>Common myths</h2>\n<ul>\n<li><b>\"Running in hard makes the engine more powerful.\"</b> This claim comes up often on forums, but manufacturers' manuals recommend gradual running-in. For the warranty, too, following the manual is the safest way.</li>\n<li><b>\"Modern engines don't need running in.\"</b> Manufacturing tolerances have improved, but most manufacturers still specify a rev limit and a first service for the first kilometres.</li>\n<li><b>\"You must never accelerate during running-in.\"</b> No; short accelerations at varying load and medium revs help the rings seat. What should be avoided is full throttle and constant revs for long periods.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>The rider getting used to it during running-in</h2>\n<p>Running-in is not only for the engine, it is a getting-used-to period for you too. The new motorcycle's brakes, throttle response, weight and turning character differ from your old one. Spend the first kilometres on empty roads getting to know the brakes, doing low-speed manoeuvres and trying the riding modes. Because the running-in rev limits also force you to ride calmly, this period is a good opportunity to get used to your new motorcycle with confidence.</p>\n\n<h2>The first long trip after running-in</h2>\n<p>After the first service you can move on to normal use of the motorcycle, but it is also good to pay attention to a few points on the first long trip. Before setting off, check the oil level, tyre pressure and chain tension. In the first few hundred kilometres listen for changes in the engine's sound, vibration and the temperature gauge; if you notice anything out of the ordinary, take it to the service centre under warranty. On the first ride with luggage and a passenger, don't forget to raise the tyre pressure to the loaded value in the manual and adjust the rear shock preload. For long-distance preparation you can look at the <a href=\"/rehber/uzun-yol-listesi\">long trip checklist</a>.</p>\n\n<p>Noting the kilometres you ride and your observations during running-in in a notebook or in the <a href=\"/surus.html#bakim\">maintenance log</a> lets you give the service centre clear information at the first service.</p>\n\n<p>Read your manual from cover to cover on the day of delivery; the most accurate information on running-in, the first service and warranty conditions is always written there, and it can differ from model to model.</p>\n\n<h2>Conclusion</h2>\n<p>The essence of running-in is three rules: follow the rev limit in the manual, keep varying revs and speed, and have the first service done on time. For tyres and brakes, too, count the first 100–200 km as a bedding-in period. If you get through this period patiently, your engine gets off to a healthy start and you get used to your new motorcycle step by step. If you are a new rider, also look at the <a href=\"/rehber/ilk-motor\">first motorcycle guide</a>.</p>\n<h2>Frequently asked questions</h2>\n<h3>How many km does running-in last?</h3>\n<p>For most manufacturers, around the first 1,000 km. On some models it can last longer in stages; the exact value is in the owner's manual.</p>\n<h3>Can you go on the motorway during running-in?</h3>\n<p>You can, but riding for long periods at constant speed and revs is not recommended. On the motorway change speed and gear at intervals, and if possible spend the first several hundred kilometres on mixed roads.</p>\n<h3>Can you carry a passenger during running-in?</h3>\n<p>Over a short distance it is possible, but a long journey with a heavy load and a passenger unnecessarily strains the engine during running-in. It is better to leave it until after the first service.</p>\n<h3>What happens if the first service is not done?</h3>\n<p>The metal particles in the first oil keep circulating in the engine and you may have problems with the warranty terms. Have the first service done at the km in the manual and keep the invoice.</p>\n"}