{"body":"\n<p>A clean motorcycle doesn't just look good: dirt and salt speed up corrosion and hide oil leaks and cracks. But washing it wrongly, especially careless high-pressure washing, can damage the bearings, electrical connections and chain. Washing the right way both protects the motorcycle and lets you spot small faults early.</p>\n<h2>1. Before washing</h2>\n<ul>\n<li><b>The motorcycle should be cold.</b> Spraying cold water on a hot exhaust and engine block can cause stains, and cleaner that dries on a hot surface leaves marks. Wash in the shade.</li>\n<li><b>Protect sensitive points:</b> You can plug the exhaust outlet (don't forget to remove it after washing). Cover the key slot and any exposed electrical sockets.</li>\n<li><b>Materials:</b> Two buckets (one with soapy water, one for rinsing), motorcycle shampoo, a soft microfibre mitt, separate brushes for wheels and chain, microfibre drying cloths.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>2. High-pressure washing warning</h2>\n<div class=\"callout warn\">High-pressure water gets behind gaskets and seals, washes out grease and leaves water inside. Bearings rust, electrical connections oxidise and the chain's O-ring seals can be damaged.</div>\n<p>If you are going to use high pressure:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Keep the nozzle away from the motorcycle and use a wide-angle spray.</li>\n<li><b>Do not spray directly</b> at these points: wheel and steering bearings, the swingarm pivot, the chain, electrical sockets and the instrument panel, radiator fins, the air filter intake, the exhaust outlet, the brake master cylinder caps, under the seat.</li>\n<li>Use the jet washer mainly to loosen mud on the lower parts of the wheels; do the actual cleaning by hand.</li>\n</ul>\n<p>The safest method is to rinse with a garden hose or low-pressure water.</p>\n<h2>3. The right washing order</h2>\n<ol>\n<li><b>Pre-rinse:</b> Wet the whole motorcycle at low pressure and loosen dust and sand. Wiping a gritty surface dry scratches the paint.</li>\n<li><b>Wheels and underside:</b> Start with the dirtiest places. Use a separate brush for the wheels. Don't apply greasy cleaner to the brake discs.</li>\n<li><b>Engine block and oily areas:</b> If necessary use a degreaser suitable for motorcycles; don't exceed the dwell time in the instructions and don't let it dry.</li>\n<li><b>Bodywork:</b> From top to bottom, with soapy water and a microfibre mitt. Rinse the mitt often in the rinse bucket.</li>\n<li><b>Rinsing:</b> From top to bottom, at low pressure, so that no foam is left.</li>\n</ol>\n<h3>Choosing products</h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Washing-up liquid strips protective polish and the oil from plastics; prefer motorcycle shampoo.</li>\n<li>Acidic and strong wheel cleaners can damage some wheel finishes and anodised parts. Test in an inconspicuous place first.</li>\n<li>Don't use polish and shine products on matt-painted parts; use a product made for matt surfaces.</li>\n<li>Don't wipe the visor and dashboard glass with window cleaners containing solvents; only water and microfibre.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>4. Chain</h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Don't point high pressure at the chain. Clean it with chain cleaner and a soft chain brush.</li>\n<li>Paraffin and similar solvents are not recommended, or only recommended to a limited extent, by most chain manufacturers; choose a chain cleaner that is O-ring compatible.</li>\n<li>After washing, the chain must be dried and <b>re-lubricated</b>; a chain left dry after washing rusts quickly.</li>\n<li>For details see the <a href=\"#/rehber/zincir\">chain maintenance guide</a>.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>5. Drying</h2>\n<p>Waiting for the water to dry by itself leaves limescale marks and causes water to collect in hidden corners.</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Dry from top to bottom with microfibre cloths.</li>\n<li>For electrical sockets, handlebar controls and the gaps around the engine you can use an air blower or a compressor on a low setting.</li>\n<li><b>A short ride:</b> Riding the motorcycle a few kilometres after washing evaporates the remaining water with the heat of the engine and exhaust and dries out moisture in the brakes.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>6. Protection and polish</h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Applying polish or a protective spray to painted surfaces makes later washes easier and reduces insect residue sticking.</li>\n<li>Protectors that prevent fading can be used on plastic and rubber parts.</li>\n<li>You can apply a thin layer of corrosion inhibitor to bare metal parts (bolts, fittings).</li>\n</ul>\n<div class=\"callout warn\">Don't let polish, silicone or shine products get onto the brake discs, pads or the tyre tread. They reduce braking power and tyre grip dangerously. If they do, clean the disc with a suitable brake cleaner; if it has got onto the pads they may need replacing.</div>\n<h2>7. Post-wash checks</h2>\n<p>A clean motorcycle reveals problems that dirt was hiding. Do a quick check after washing:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Oil leaks at the front fork seals</li>\n<li>Oil marks on the engine block or at gasket areas</li>\n<li>Cracks or bulges in brake hoses</li>\n<li>Loose bolts, broken or cracked plastic</li>\n<li>Nails, cuts or cracks in the tyres</li>\n<li>Do all the lights work (is there a socket that has failed after the water?)</li>\n</ul>\n<p><b>Make the first stop gentle:</b> Wet discs grip later in the first few stops.</p>\n<h2>8. How often should you wash?</h2>\n<ul>\n<li><b>Winter and salted roads:</b> Salt speeds up corrosion a great deal; rinse with fresh water as soon as possible after riding on salted roads. See <a href=\"#/rehber/kis\">winter riding</a>.</li>\n<li><b>By the sea:</b> Rinsing is needed more often because of the salty air.</li>\n<li><b>Summer:</b> Insect residue can damage the paint and the visor; clean it without delay after a long trip.</li>\n<li><b>Normal use:</b> As it gets dirty; generally every few weeks is enough.</li>\n</ul>\n<div class=\"callout\">Cleaning is the cheapest maintenance step. To plan periodic maintenance and costs, take a look at the <a href=\"#/masraf\">cost calculator</a>.</div>"}