{"body":"\n<p>In many Turkish cities winter is mild enough that you need not give up your motorcycle completely; in the interior and the east, motorcycles stay in the garage for a few months. Preparation is essential in both cases: if you ride in winter, against cold, ice and short days; if you park the bike, against battery, fuel and damp problems. In this guide we explain safe riding in the cold, winter gear, maintenance of a motorcycle ridden in winter and the preparation steps for those who will park up for a long time.</p>\n<h2>Riding in the cold</h2>\n<ul>\n<li><b>Tyres don't grip in the cold:</b> For the first 10–15 minutes the tyres do not warm up enough; avoid hard braking and deep lean angles. Cold tarmac makes it harder for the tyre to reach its working temperature anyway; on short city journeys the tyre may never warm up fully.</li>\n<li><b>Ice:</b> If the temperature is below 3–4 °C, bridges, shaded corners and morning hours are risky. Tarmac that looks shiny and wet can be hidden ice (black ice).</li>\n<li><b>Wind chill:</b> At 5 °C and 90 km/h the body feels below zero. Dress in layers: thermal underwear, a fleece mid layer, a windproof outer layer.</li>\n<li><b>Hands:</b> Heated grips or handlebar muffs completely change winter riding.</li>\n<li><b>Salt and grit:</b> The salt and sand spread by municipalities increase the risk of sliding in corners and reduce grip even on tarmac that looks dry.</li>\n<li><b>Short days:</b> It gets dark early in winter. Be visible and follow the rules for riding at night: <a href=\"/rehber/gece-surusu\">night riding guide</a>.</li>\n<li><b>Fatigue:</b> A body that is getting cold tires quickly and reaction times lengthen. Take breaks more often and warm up with a hot drink.</li>\n</ul>\n<p>For riding technique on wet and slippery surfaces, the rules in the <a href=\"/rehber/yagmur\">riding safely in the rain</a> guide also apply in winter.</p>\n<h2>Winter gear</h2>\n<ul>\n<li><b>Layers:</b> Moisture-wicking thermal underwear, a heat-retaining fleece or wool mid layer, and a windproof, waterproof outer layer. Cotton underwear chills you when it gets wet. <a href=\"/ekipman/termal\">Thermal clothing options</a>.</li>\n<li><b>Jacket and trousers:</b> A four-season jacket and trousers with inner linings. Make sure the protectors stay in place with the lining fitted. <a href=\"/ekipman/mont-4mevsim\">Four-season jackets</a>.</li>\n<li><b>Gloves:</b> Winter gloves should not squeeze the fingers; tight gloves reduce circulation and make the hand get cold faster. For size see the <a href=\"/rehber/motosiklet-eldiveni-beden-olcumu\">glove size guide</a>, for products <a href=\"/ekipman/eldiven-kislik\">winter gloves</a>.</li>\n<li><b>Heated gear:</b> Heated grips, gloves or a vest make a difference on long winter rides. Check whether the motorcycle's charging system can handle the extra load. <a href=\"/ekipman/isitmali\">Heated gear</a> and <a href=\"/ekipman/gidon-eldiveni\">handlebar muffs</a>.</li>\n<li><b>Neck:</b> A <a href=\"/ekipman/boyunluk\">neck warmer</a> cuts the cold air getting in between the jacket collar and the helmet.</li>\n<li><b>Visor:</b> Misting increases in the cold; a Pinlock inner visor is almost essential in winter.</li>\n<li><b>Windscreen and hand protection:</b> A taller <a href=\"/ekipman/ruzgarlik\">windscreen</a> and <a href=\"/ekipman/el-koruma\">handguards</a> keep wind off your torso and hands.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>Maintaining a motorcycle ridden in winter</h2>\n<ul>\n<li><b>Battery:</b> Battery capacity drops in the cold, and short trips do not charge the battery enough. If the starter struggles, have the battery tested. <a href=\"/rehber/aku-bakimi\">Battery care guide</a>.</li>\n<li><b>Tyre pressure:</b> Tyre pressure drops in cold weather. Measure it every two weeks when the tyres are cold.</li>\n<li><b>Salt cleaning:</b> After salted roads, rinse the motorcycle with cold or lukewarm water, especially the underside and the chain. For washing rules see the <a href=\"/rehber/motor-yikama\">motorcycle washing guide</a>.</li>\n<li><b>Chain:</b> On wet and salty roads the chain should be lubricated more often.</li>\n<li><b>Coolant:</b> On liquid-cooled engines, have the antifreeze ratio checked to make sure it is sufficient against freezing.</li>\n<li><b>Warming up:</b> Instead of leaving the engine idling for a long time, set off at low revs after a short warm-up; the engine warms up faster on the road.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>If you will park up for a long time</h2>\n<ol>\n<li><b>Fill the tank:</b> An empty tank rusts from the inside. Add a fuel stabiliser and ride a few km.</li>\n<li><b>Change the oil:</b> Acids in used oil damage the engine while it sits.</li>\n<li><b>Protect the battery:</b> Connect the battery to a trickle charger (tender), or remove it and store it somewhere warm, charging it once a month. <a href=\"/ekipman/aku-sarj\">Battery chargers</a>.</li>\n<li><b>Clean and lubricate the chain.</b></li>\n<li><b>Tyres:</b> Raise the pressure slightly above normal and, if possible, put the motorcycle on its centre stand. For motorcycles without a centre stand, a <a href=\"/ekipman/padok-sehpa\">paddock stand</a> stops the tyres being squashed at a single point.</li>\n<li><b>Cover:</b> Use a breathable cover; a nylon cover traps moisture. <a href=\"/ekipman/branda\">Cover options</a>.</li>\n<li><b>Cleaning:</b> Wash the motorcycle before parking and dry it completely; dirt and salt cause corrosion while it sits.</li>\n<li><b>Exhaust and air intake:</b> Block the exhaust tip and the airbox intake with a breathable cloth to keep mice and insects out; don't forget to remove it in spring.</li>\n<li><b>Security:</b> A motorcycle left for a long time is also a target for thieves. Lock and tracking recommendations: <a href=\"/rehber/motosiklet-kilidi-secimi\">choosing a motorcycle lock</a>.</li>\n</ol>\n<h2>First start in spring</h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Check the tyre pressure, brake fluid and chain tension.</li>\n<li>Fit the battery and check its voltage.</li>\n<li>Remove the blockings from the exhaust and air intake.</li>\n<li>Check the oil level and look for leaks.</li>\n<li>Check the firmness of the brake levers and pedal and that all lights work.</li>\n<li>On the first ride warm the brakes and tyres up gradually; discs that have sat for months may have light rust.</li>\n<li>If the tyres are more than 5 years old, look for cracks on the sidewalls: <a href=\"/rehber/motosiklet-lastigi-ne-zaman-degisir\">tyre replacement guide</a>.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>Visibility when riding in winter</h2>\n<p>Winter days are short, mornings are foggy and evenings get dark early. Car drivers notice a motorcycle later from behind misted windows. A light-coloured or reflective outer layer, reflective strips on the helmet and the dipped beam on in the daytime too increase visibility. Turkey also has a rule on reflective clothing at night. <a href=\"/ekipman/yelek-reflektif\">Reflective vest options</a>.</p>\n\n<h2>Choosing roads and routes in winter</h2>\n<p>Route choice is also part of safety when riding in winter. If possible, prefer main roads and routes that are salted regularly; mountain passes, high-altitude plateaus and shaded forest roads can stay icy for a long time in winter. Before setting off, check the weather and road conditions in the region you are going to, and postpone the journey if snowfall is expected. The risk of ice is highest early in the morning and late in the evening; it is safer to plan winter rides around midday. If the weather unexpectedly worsens on the road, stop at a safe place and, if necessary, don't hesitate to leave the motorcycle and use another form of transport.</p>\n\n<p>Before every winter ride, take a short walk around the motorcycle: are there cracks or low pressure in the tyres, faults in the lights, rust on the chain? On cold mornings this few-minute check reduces the surprises you might meet on the road.</p>\n\n<h2>Conclusion</h2>\n<p>If you ride in winter, dress in layers, keep your hands and neck warm, wait for the tyres to warm up in the first minutes and slow down on bridges and shaded corners because of the risk of ice. If you are going to park the motorcycle, a full tank, fresh oil, a trickle charger and a breathable cover will give you a trouble-free start in spring.</p>\n<h2>Frequently asked questions</h2>\n<h3>Can you ride a motorcycle in winter?</h3>\n<p>On days without ice, yes, with the right gear and careful riding. When the temperature is below 3–4 °C, the risk of hidden ice is high on bridges, in shaded corners and in the morning hours.</p>\n<h3>How often should the engine be started in winter?</h3>\n<p>Running it for just a few minutes at idle does not warm the engine fully and may cause moisture to build up inside. If you can't take a short ride, it is better to connect the battery to a trickle charger and leave the engine unstarted.</p>\n<h3>Does tyre pressure change in winter?</h3>\n<p>Yes, pressure drops in the cold. Measure it every two weeks when the tyres are cold and bring it to the value in the manual.</p>\n<h3>When preparing the motorcycle for winter, should the tank be empty or full?</h3>\n<p>Full. An empty tank holds moisture and rusts from the inside. Fill the tank, add a fuel stabiliser and ride a few km so that the additive passes into the system.</p>\n"}