{"body":"<p>A helmet's protection depends on how accurately it fits your head. A loose helmet shifts on the head in an impact and loses the contact the inner foam needs in order to absorb energy; a tight one gives you a headache within half an hour and you start finding excuses not to wear it. In this guide we explain, step by step, how to measure your head circumference, how to convert centimetres into a size, why head shape matters at least as much as size, and how to try on a helmet in a shop. For helmet type, certification and budget, see the <a href=\"/rehber/motosiklet-kaski-nasil-secilir\">helmet selection guide</a>; here we focus only on size and fit.</p>\n\n<h2>What do you need?</h2>\n<ul>\n<li>A flexible tailor's tape measure. A metal tape measure does not follow the curve of the head and inflates the measurement.</li>\n<li>A mirror or someone to help you. You can take the measurement yourself, but it is hard to see where the tape passes at the back.</li>\n<li>Pen and paper. You will take the measurement three times.</li>\n</ul>\n<p>If you have no tape measure, you can use a piece of string or a charging cable and then measure it with a ruler, but this method introduces a margin of error of a few millimetres. Because size boundaries are 1–2 cm apart, this difference can push you into the next size up or down.</p>\n\n<h2>How to measure head circumference, step by step</h2>\n<ol>\n<li><b>Flatten your hair.</b> If your hair is thick or tied up, loosen it and lay it flat on your head. Take the measurement the way you will wear the helmet (for example with a bandana or balaclava).</li>\n<li><b>Start the tape at your forehead.</b> Run it about 1–2 cm above your eyebrows, across the widest part of your forehead.</li>\n<li><b>Take it round above your ears.</b> The tape should pass just above your ears, not over them.</li>\n<li><b>Find the most prominent point at the back.</b> Run it across the bony bump that sticks out furthest at the back of your head. Slide the tape up and down a little and look for the spot that gives the largest value.</li>\n<li><b>Read it without pulling tight or leaving it loose.</b> The tape should touch the skin but not sink into it.</li>\n<li><b>Repeat three times.</b> Use the largest value.</li>\n</ol>\n<p>If you enter your measurement in the <a href=\"/arac/beden\">helmet and glove size tool</a>, you will immediately see which size you fall into and whether you are on a borderline.</p>\n\n<h2>Helmet size chart by centimetre</h2>\n<p>The table below is the general range used by most European and Japanese brands. Between brands there can be a shift of up to 1 cm; always check that brand's own chart before buying.</p>\n<table>\n<tr><th>Head circumference</th><th>Size</th></tr>\n<tr><td>51–52 cm</td><td>XXS</td></tr>\n<tr><td>53–54 cm</td><td>XS</td></tr>\n<tr><td>55–56 cm</td><td>S</td></tr>\n<tr><td>57–58 cm</td><td>M</td></tr>\n<tr><td>59–60 cm</td><td>L</td></tr>\n<tr><td>61–62 cm</td><td>XL</td></tr>\n<tr><td>63–64 cm</td><td>XXL</td></tr>\n<tr><td>65–66 cm</td><td>3XL</td></tr>\n</table>\n<p><b>What if you are on the borderline?</b> For example, if you measured 58.5 cm, try both M and L. The general tendency is to choose the tighter-feeling option for a new helmet, because the inner padding settles a few millimetres in the first few weeks. But if the tightness reaches the level of \"painful pressure\", the smaller size is the wrong choice.</p>\n\n<h2>Head shape: the second criterion after size</h2>\n<p>Two people can both have a 57 cm head circumference, but one has a round head and the other a long oval one. Looking at the helmet from above, the ratio between the head's front-to-back length and its side-to-side width determines whether the shell shape will suit you.</p>\n<ul>\n<li><b>Long oval:</b> clearly long from front to back, narrow at the sides. On this head, a round shell presses on the forehead and leaves gaps at the sides.</li>\n<li><b>Intermediate oval:</b> the most common head shape. Most brands build their main shells for this.</li>\n<li><b>Round:</b> front-to-back and side-to-side measurements are close to each other. An oval shell squeezes the temples and leaves gaps at the forehead and the nape.</li>\n</ul>\n<p>To work out your head shape, ask someone to photograph you from directly above, or wet your hair and look at it from above in a mirror. Some manufacturers state on product pages which model suits which head form; the real criterion is feeling the helmet you try wrap evenly everywhere.</p>\n\n<h2>Shell size and inner padding</h2>\n<p>In quality helmets, two, three or even four different outer shell sizes are made for different size ranges. In cheap helmets there is usually one or two shells, and the size difference is provided only by the thickness of the inner padding. In that case an XS helmet means a large shell for your head: it looks heavier and catches more wind. If you are very small or very large, give priority to models with more than one shell size.</p>\n<p>Some brands sell the cheek pads separately. If the helmet fits your head overall but feels loose or tight at the cheeks, it may be possible to change the cheek pads. Pad replacement generally does not fix pressure at the crown and forehead; in that case the shape is not right for you.</p>\n\n<h2>How to try on a helmet in a shop</h2>\n<p>The measurement gives you a starting size; the decision is made after trying on. Follow this order:</p>\n<ol>\n<li><b>Putting it on:</b> open the chin straps to both sides and put the helmet on. It is normal for it to go on with a little effort.</li>\n<li><b>First feel:</b> your cheeks should be slightly squeezed, and the helmet should touch your forehead and the top of your head evenly. Your eye line should be in the middle of the visor.</li>\n<li><b>Rotation test:</b> fasten the strap. Hold the helmet with both hands and turn it left and right. Your skin should move with the helmet. If the helmet turns freely on your head, it is too big.</li>\n<li><b>Roll-off test:</b> take the helmet by the back and try to tip it forward. If, with the strap fastened, the helmet seems about to come off your head or slides down over your eyes, this size and shape are not right.</li>\n<li><b>Finger test:</b> try to slip a finger between your forehead and the helmet. If it goes in easily, the helmet is loose.</li>\n<li><b>Time:</b> keep the helmet on for at least 15 minutes, and if possible 20–30 minutes. Walk around the shop and tilt your head up and down. A pressure point you did not notice in the first minutes often appears after the 10th minute.</li>\n<li><b>After taking it off:</b> if it leaves a red mark on your forehead and it does not fade within a few minutes, the pressure at that spot is too great.</li>\n</ol>\n<div class=\"callout\">If you wear glasses, go to the try-on with your glasses. If the arms of the glasses press too hard into the padding, it causes pain behind the ear on a long ride; some helmets have a separate channel for this.</div>\n\n<h2>The size risk of buying a helmet online</h2>\n<p>Prices online can be attractive, but buying a helmet without trying it on is risky. If possible, try the same model in a shop, and order once you are sure of your size. Read the return and exchange conditions on the order; many sellers do not take back a helmet that has been tried on, has had its tag torn off or its visor film removed. When trying the helmet at home, do not remove the protective films; just wear it in a clean environment for 20–30 minutes.</p>\n<p>To see price ranges, you can look at the pages for <a href=\"/ekipman/kask-kapali\">full-face helmet recommendations and prices</a>, <a href=\"/ekipman/kask-moduler\">modular helmets</a> if you prefer a flip-up chin bar for the city, and <a href=\"/ekipman/kask-jet\">open-face (jet) helmets</a> for the open type.</p>\n\n<h2>Common sizing mistakes</h2>\n<ul>\n<li><b>Buying the size of your old helmet again:</b> brands change their shells; even within the same brand, models fit differently.</li>\n<li><b>Choosing the one that feels comfortable:</b> a helmet that feels \"comfortable at first\" in the shop becomes loose after a few weeks.</li>\n<li><b>Buying a big one for a child to grow into:</b> a child's helmet must fit properly too. A loose helmet does not protect in an impact.</li>\n<li><b>Choosing the passenger's helmet at random:</b> the passenger should go through the same measuring and try-on process.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<h2>Fit over the helmet's lifetime</h2>\n<p>Even after you have found the right size, keeping the fit is up to you. Remove and wash the inner padding regularly in the way the manufacturer recommends; padding that has hardened with sweat and lost its shape reduces how well the helmet holds onto your head. If the cheek pads become noticeably thinner within a few years and the helmet starts to wobble, on models with spare pads it may be enough to renew just the pads. Do not hang the helmet on the motorcycle's mirror or the end of the handlebar; the inner foam can be crushed at these hard points. If there has been a big change in your weight or hairstyle (for example you have had long hair cut short), check the fit again. If you carry a passenger, the passenger's helmet must pass the same tests; on the back seat the head is more exposed to the wind and to the risk of hitting the rider's helmet. Do not use an adult helmet for child passengers; choose a child's helmet suited to the head measurement. Finally, if you have dropped the helmet, assume the inner foam has taken an impact even if you see no mark on the outer shell, and have it checked by an expert; crushed foam will not absorb energy in the next impact.</p>\n<p>When you find a helmet that suits your head, note down its model and size. Even when moving to a new version of the same model the shell can change, so try it on anyway, but the note quickly narrows your options.</p>\n\n<h2>Conclusion</h2>\n<p>For the right helmet size, first measure your head circumference three times, find your starting size from the chart, then choose the shell that suits your head shape by trying it for at least 15 minutes. A helmet that is snug but not painful, does not rotate and does not tip forward is your helmet. You can enter your hand circumference in the same tool for your glove size too: the <a href=\"/rehber/motosiklet-eldiveni-beden-olcumu\">glove size guide</a> is the next step.</p>\n\n<h2>Frequently asked questions</h2>\n<h3>What size in cm is a helmet?</h3>\n<p>In the general chart, S corresponds to a head circumference of 55–56 cm, M 57–58 cm, L 59–60 cm, XL 61–62 cm. There can be a difference of up to 1 cm between brands, so check the brand's own chart.</p>\n<h3>I am between two sizes; which should I buy?</h3>\n<p>Try both for at least 15 minutes. If it is not painful, generally choose the tighter one; the inner padding settles a few millimetres with use and the helmet loosens a little.</p>\n<h3>How long does a new helmet take to settle?</h3>\n<p>The inner padding generally settles within the first 15–20 hours of use. The tightness eases during this time, but a clear pressure point does not go away; in that case the shape does not suit your head.</p>\n<h3>What should I do if the helmet turns on my head?</h3>\n<p>If the helmet turns independently of your skin with the strap fastened, it is too big. Try one size down; if that does not fit either, look for a different shell shape or a model with the option of thicker cheek pads.</p>"}