{"body":"\n<p>Many riders ride for years without ever braking with full force once. Then in a real emergency they either don't press the brake hard enough or lock the wheel. Braking is the skill that most needs practising and is practised least.</p>\n<h2>1. The front brake is the main brake</h2>\n<p>When braking, weight shifts forward: the front suspension compresses, the front tyre presses harder into the road and the rear tyre gets lighter. So on a dry road the <b>greater part of stopping power comes from the front brake</b>; in hard braking this share rises even more. A rider who tries to stop with the rear brake alone lengthens the stopping distance seriously.</p>\n<ul>\n<li><b>Front brake:</b> The main stopper. On a dry, straight road it carries the load of hard braking.</li>\n<li><b>Rear brake:</b> Steadies the motorcycle and is useful in low-speed manoeuvres and for adjusting speed in a corner. In hard braking the rear wheel is light and locks easily.</li>\n<li><b>Use both together:</b> Make it a habit to use both brakes in every stop. In an emergency the body repeats the habit.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>The balance changes with the surface</h3>\n<p>On wet, gravelly or dirt surfaces grip is reduced and weight transfer is more limited. In these cases approach the front brake more gently and use the rear brake a little more. At low speed, in tight U-turns and when parking, using the rear brake instead of the front prevents the motorcycle from tipping over.</p>\n<h2>2. Progressive loading: squeeze, don't yank</h2>\n<p>Grabbing the front brake lever suddenly can lock the tyre before the suspension has even compressed. The correct technique has two stages:</p>\n<ol>\n<li><b>Initial loading:</b> Squeeze the lever lightly at first. The suspension compresses, weight goes onto the front, the front tyre is squashed and grip increases.</li>\n<li><b>Increase:</b> Immediately after, raise the pressure quickly but smoothly. The time that passes is a small fraction of a second, but the difference is big.</li>\n</ol>\n<p>On most modern motorcycles, using the lever with <b>two fingers</b> (index and middle) rather than four gives enough force and also lets you control the throttle with the remaining fingers. If the brake lever reach is adjustable, set it to the size of your hand.</p>\n<h2>3. If you have ABS</h2>\n<ul>\n<li>In an emergency squeeze both brakes <b>hard and continuously</b>. Don't pump; ABS does this for you many times a second.</li>\n<li>You will feel vibration and clicking in the lever and pedal. This is normal, don't release the brake.</li>\n<li>Look at your escape route, keep your arms relaxed and grip the tank with your knees.</li>\n<li>Standard ABS works best with the motorcycle upright. Some models have advanced ABS (lean-sensitive) that also works in corners; find out from the owner's manual which one your motorcycle has.</li>\n</ul>\n<div class=\"callout\">ABS does not always shorten the stopping distance, but it largely prevents the wheel locking and loss of control. One more reason to prefer a model with ABS when looking at second-hand. See the <a href=\"#/rehber/ikinci-el\">second-hand guide</a>.</div>\n<h2>4. If you don't have ABS</h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Load the front brake progressively and hold it just below the point of locking.</li>\n<li><b>If the front wheel locks:</b> Release the front brake immediately, then squeeze progressively again. A locked front wheel causes a fall within seconds.</li>\n<li><b>If the rear wheel locks and the motorcycle is going straight:</b> In most cases it is safer not to release the rear brake and to keep it locked until you stop. Suddenly releasing the brake while the rear is sliding can throw the motorcycle off (highside) when the tyre suddenly grips.</li>\n<li>These reactions become reflexes only with practice; in an emergency there is no time to think.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>5. Braking in a corner</h2>\n<p>When the motorcycle is leaning, the tyre's grip is shared between cornering and braking. If you need to brake hard in a corner there are two ways:</p>\n<ul>\n<li><b>If there is enough room:</b> First straighten the motorcycle quickly, then brake hard with it upright.</li>\n<li><b>If there is no room:</b> Start very gently and increase braking force as the motorcycle stands up.</li>\n</ul>\n<p>The best thing is not to have to brake in a corner; set your speed before the corner. Details in the <a href=\"#/rehber/viraj-teknigi\">cornering technique guide</a>.</p>\n<h2>6. Engine braking and gears</h2>\n<p>Closing the throttle and changing down reduce speed but are no substitute for emergency braking. In emergency braking, pulling the clutch prevents engine braking from locking the rear wheel. When stopped, don't forget to select first gear; in case of danger from behind you need to be able to pull away immediately.</p>\n<h2>7. Following distance and reaction time</h2>\n<p>Even the best braking technique does not reduce reaction time to zero. In the time between seeing the hazard and pressing the brake, the motorcycle keeps travelling. Leave <b>at least two seconds</b> between you and the vehicle ahead on a dry road, and more on a wet road. Where traffic is heavy, keep two fingers ready on the brake lever.</p>\n<h2>Exercise programme</h2>\n<p>In an empty, clean, flat car park, with full gear:</p>\n<ol>\n<li><b>Warm-up:</b> At low speed (about 20–30 km/h) make gentle stops using both brakes together.</li>\n<li><b>Progressive loading:</b> At the same speed make harder stops, feeling the initial loading and increase stages.</li>\n<li><b>Increasing speed:</b> As you feel safe, raise the speed bit by bit. Set a stopping point (a cone, a marker) and try to shorten the distance each time.</li>\n<li><b>ABS feel:</b> On a motorcycle with ABS, squeeze until ABS kicks in; knowing the vibration means you won't panic at the real moment.</li>\n<li><b>Avoidance:</b> Practise the scenario of braking hard and then swerving to one side instead of stopping.</li>\n</ol>\n<div class=\"callout warn\">Before brake practice, check the pads, the brake fluid and the tyres. Worn pads or old fluid can waste even the best technique. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and should be changed regularly according to the manufacturer's recommendation.</div>"}