{"body":"\n<p>The most common cause of \"the motorcycle won't start\" complaints is a flat or tired battery. Motorcycle batteries are much smaller than car batteries; on a motorcycle left unused for a long time, or with equipment that draws constant current such as an alarm or tracker, they can run flat within a few weeks. A little knowledge and a simple charger remove most of this problem.</p>\n<h2>1. Battery types</h2>\n<table><tr><th>Type</th><th>Characteristics</th><th>Maintenance</th></tr>\n<tr><td>Conventional (wet, lead-acid)</td><td>On older and cheaper motorcycles. Has cell caps.</td><td>Fluid level is checked and distilled water added if necessary. Watch for acid leaks.</td></tr>\n<tr><td>AGM (maintenance-free)</td><td>The most common type today. Sealed, no fluid added.</td><td>Only the state of charge is monitored. The caps are not opened.</td></tr>\n<tr><td>Gel</td><td>Resistant to vibration, sealed.</td><td>Needs a suitable charging programme; must not be charged at high voltage.</td></tr>\n<tr><td>Lithium (usually LiFePO4)</td><td>Very light, long-lived, expensive.</td><td><b>A lithium-compatible charger is essential.</b> The \"desulphation\" or high-voltage modes of lead-acid chargers can damage a lithium battery.</td></tr></table>\n<p>When replacing a battery, use the type, capacity and size in the motorcycle's owner's manual. Before switching to a lithium battery, make sure the motorcycle's charging system is compatible.</p>\n<h2>2. Understanding the battery's condition</h2>\n<p>Measuring the battery with a simple multimeter takes a few seconds. Take the measurement with the engine off, after the engine has not been run for at least a few hours.</p>\n<ul>\n<li><b>Rough values for a lead-acid / AGM battery:</b> 12.6 V and above is generally regarded as full, around 12.4 V half full and 12.0 V and below as empty. A lead-acid battery left empty for a long time can suffer permanent damage.</li>\n<li><b>For lithium batteries</b> the resting voltage is different; see the manufacturer's values.</li>\n<li><b>With the engine running:</b> If the voltage rises above the resting value when the revs go up a little, the charging system is working. If the value is below or well above the range in the manual, there may be a fault in the alternator or the regulator-rectifier.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>Signs of a weak battery</h3>\n<ul>\n<li>The starter turns slowly and reluctantly, there is a clicking sound</li>\n<li>The dashboard lights go out or flicker when you press the starter</li>\n<li>It is harder to start on cold mornings</li>\n<li>The battery is swollen, cracked or the terminals are oxidised white/green</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>3. Trickle charger (smart charger)</h2>\n<p>It is one of the most useful small investments for a motorcyclist. The difference from an ordinary charger is that it cuts the charge when the battery is full and switches to maintenance (protection) mode only.</p>\n<ul>\n<li>It can stay connected for weeks in winter or on a motorcycle that is not used for a long time.</li>\n<li>With most units comes a socket lead that attaches permanently to the battery; it is brought out from under the seat so the battery doesn't have to be removed every time.</li>\n<li>Choose a low-current unit suitable for motorcycle batteries. High-current chargers made for car batteries can heat a small battery and shorten its life.</li>\n<li>If you have a lithium battery, make sure the unit has a lithium mode.</li>\n<li>Charge in a well-ventilated place; lead-acid batteries can give off flammable gas while charging.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>4. Winter storage</h2>\n<ol>\n<li>Fully charge the battery.</li>\n<li>If it is to stay in the motorcycle, connect it to a trickle charger.</li>\n<li>If you have no trickle charger, remove the battery and store it in a cool, dry place, checking the voltage and charging it every few weeks.</li>\n<li>When removing, take off the <b>negative (-)</b> terminal first, then the positive (+). When fitting, <b>positive (+)</b> first, then negative (-).</li>\n</ol>\n<p>For the rest of the winter preparation see the <a href=\"#/rehber/kis\">winter guide</a>.</p>\n<h2>5. Jump-starting: the safe order</h2>\n<div class=\"callout warn\">Connecting the terminals the wrong way round can blow fuses and burn out the ECU and electrical system. Don't jump-start a frozen, cracked, swollen or leaking battery. Follow the order to keep sparks away from the battery during connection.</div>\n<h3>Connection order</h3>\n<ol>\n<li>Make sure the ignition of both vehicles is off.</li>\n<li>Connect the <b>red</b> lead to the <b>positive (+)</b> terminal of the flat battery.</li>\n<li>Connect the other end of the red lead to the <b>positive (+)</b> terminal of the good battery.</li>\n<li>Connect the <b>black</b> lead to the <b>negative (-)</b> terminal of the good battery.</li>\n<li>Connect the other end of the black lead not to the flat battery but to an <b>unpainted metal earthing point</b> (the frame, a bolt on the engine block) of the engine to be started. If access is difficult and the manual allows it, it can be connected to the negative terminal.</li>\n<li>Start the engine. If it doesn't start after a few tries, don't hold the starter for long; the starter motor heats up. Wait a little and try again.</li>\n</ol>\n<h3>Disconnection order (the exact reverse of connection)</h3>\n<ol>\n<li>Remove the black lead from the earthing point.</li>\n<li>Remove the black lead from the good battery.</li>\n<li>Remove the red lead from the good battery.</li>\n<li>Remove the red lead from the battery of the engine that has started.</li>\n</ol>\n<h3>Jump-starting from a car</h3>\n<p>When jump-starting from a car battery, <b>don't run the car's engine</b>. The charging system of a running car can strain the motorcycle's small electrical system. A switched-off car battery is generally enough to start a motorcycle. Even so, if there is a specific warning about jump-starting in your motorcycle's manual, follow it.</p>\n<h3>Portable jump starter</h3>\n<p>Power bank type lithium jump starters are a great convenience on a long trip. Most have reverse-connection protection. Choose one with power suitable for a motorcycle and charge the unit regularly too.</p>\n<h2>6. After it starts</h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Don't switch off a jump-started engine after a short idle; the battery doesn't charge that way. If possible, ride for a while, then fully charge the battery with the charger.</li>\n<li>If the battery goes flat again in a short time, the cause may be the battery itself, the charging system or equipment drawing constant current. Have the service centre measure the parasitic drain and charging voltage.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>If the motorcycle won't start, check beyond the battery</h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Side stand sensor: With the motorcycle in gear and the side stand down, most won't start.</li>\n<li>Is the engine kill switch in the \"run\" position?</li>\n<li>Are you in neutral (N), or is the clutch pulled in?</li>\n<li>Is there fuel, has a fuse blown?</li>\n<li>Is the immobiliser chip in the key being recognised (dashboard warning)?</li>\n</ul>\n<div class=\"callout\">To add battery replacement to your annual running costs, see the <a href=\"#/masraf\">cost calculator</a>, and for other practical tools the <a href=\"/surus.html\">tools</a> page.</div>"}