A neglected chain both loses power and quickly wears out the sprockets. With regular maintenance a chain set can last 20,000–30,000 km; left neglected, that falls to half. The good news: chain maintenance is a simple ten-minute job and needs very few tools. In this guide we explain how often to service it, cleaning and lubrication step by step, tension adjustment and common mistakes. When the set needs to be replaced completely is covered separately in the chain and sprocket set guide.
How often?
- Lubrication: Every 500–700 km, and after every ride in the rain.
- Cleaning: Every 1,000–1,500 km, or after a muddy road.
- Tension check: Every 1,000 km.
These intervals are a general rule; the values in the owner's manual take precedence. Shorten the intervals on dusty, sandy or salted roads, on long journeys and in heavy rain. To keep track of service dates you can use the maintenance log.
What you need
- Chain cleaner spray (suitable for sealed chains)
- A three-sided chain brush or a soft brush
- Chain lube or chain spray
- A clean cloth or paper towel
- A paddock stand if there is no centre stand; so that you can turn the wheel with the motorcycle upright
- The spanners given in the manual for tension adjustment
Chain care products are on the chain care page, stands on the paddock stand page.
Step by step
- Warm the motorcycle up with a short ride (the oil works better) and put it on the centre stand or a paddock stand.
- Spray on chain cleaner, scrub with a soft chain brush and dry with a cloth. Don't use petrol, thinners or high-pressure water; they damage the O-ring seals.
- Spray the chain lube onto the inside of the chain (the face that touches the sprocket) while slowly turning the wheel.
- Leave it for 10–15 minutes and wipe off the excess.
Safety warning: When turning the wheel, keep your hand away from the area between the chain and the sprocket. Lubricating the chain by turning the wheel with the engine running and in gear leads to finger-trapping accidents; always turn the wheel by hand with the engine off.
Lubrication tips
- Little but often: Too much oil holds dust and sand and forms an abrasive paste. A thin film is enough.
- Apply the lube to a warm chain: After a short ride the lube penetrates better between the links.
- Don't lubricate just before riding: Give the lube time to settle; if you ride straight away it is flung onto the wheel rim and tyre. Lubricate in the evening, ride in the morning.
- Keep it off the tyre and brake: If lube gets onto the rear tyre or the brake disc, clean it off immediately; an oily tyre and disc reduce grip to a dangerous degree.
- Lube type: Dry (wax) type chain lubes hold less dirt, wet type lubes last longer in the rain. Choose according to your conditions of use.
Tension
Move the middle of the lower run of the chain up and down. On most motorcycles the total slack is between 20–35 mm; the correct value is given on the label stuck on the swingarm or in the manual. When adjusting, turn the adjuster bolts on both sides by an equal amount; if the rear wheel alignment is disturbed, the chain wears on one side.
How is tension adjusted?
- Put the motorcycle in the position given in the manual (usually on the side stand or with the wheel on the ground; on some motorcycles on the centre stand).
- Loosen the rear wheel axle nut.
- Turn the adjuster bolt on each side by the same amount; check that the adjustment marks on the swingarm are at the same line on both sides.
- Measure the slack again; take care to measure at the tightest point of the chain by turning the wheel.
- Tighten the axle nut to the torque value in the manual and lock the lock nuts.
Too tight or too loose?
- Too tight a chain: When the suspension works, the chain tightens even more; excessive load falls on the gearbox output shaft, the bearings and the chain.
- Too loose a chain: It knocks when you open and close the throttle, slaps against the swingarm and in the worst case jumps off the sprocket.
If the slack comes out very different at different points of the chain, the chain may have stretched unevenly; this indicates that replacement time is approaching.
Common mistakes
- Cleaning with petrol, diesel or thinners: it ruins the seals.
- Pointing a high-pressure jet directly at the chain: it pushes water inside the seals. For washing rules see the motorcycle washing guide.
- Using engine oil or a general-purpose spray: it is flung off and holds dirt.
- Turning the adjuster bolt on only one side: the wheel alignment is disturbed.
- Over-tightening the axle nut or leaving it loose without a torque wrench.
Belt and shaft drive motorcycles
Some scooters, cruisers and touring motorcycles have a belt or shaft instead of a chain. Belts do not need lubrication, but tension and wear are checked at the intervals in the manual. On shaft-drive motorcycles the final drive gear oil is changed at set intervals. On scooters the CVT belt runs inside the engine casing and is replaced at the service centre.
Chain care on long journeys
So as not to neglect chain care on a long journey, carry a small can of chain spray and a cloth. The most practical method is to lubricate the chain at the end of the day while the engine is still warm and leave it until the morning. Don't skip lubrication after a rainy day or after passing along a sandy, dusty road. On tours of several days, take a quick look at the chain tension and the sprockets every morning; on a loaded motorcycle and with a passenger the chain can stretch faster.
Service support for chain care
If you can't do chain maintenance yourself, ask the service centre to clean, lubricate and adjust the tension of the chain at every periodic service. But because periodic service intervals are much longer than the chain lubrication interval, it is important to learn at least to lubricate with chain spray in between. At a service visit also ask about the condition of the chain set; the service can measure chain stretch and give an idea of the remaining life. In this way you can plan set replacement in advance and not meet a surprise on the road. For signs that the set needs replacing, see the chain and sprocket set guide.
Making the maintenance routine easier
So as not to forget chain care, tie it to a routine: for example lubricate every second time you fill the tank, and clean and check the tension on the first weekend of every month. Keeping the care materials in a box next to the motorcycle speeds things up. Putting a piece of cardboard under the tyre while lubricating the chain stops the lube getting onto the floor and the tyre.
Remember, the few minutes you spend on chain care and a small can of spray are very little compared with the cost of a chain and sprocket set that wears out early.
Conclusion
The formula for chain care is simple: a thin film of lube every 500–700 km and after every rain, cleaning every 1,000–1,500 km, a tension check every 1,000 km. Use the right cleaner and lube, and adjust the tension to the value in the manual while keeping the wheel alignment. This ten-minute routine doubles the life of the chain set.
Frequently asked questions
How often should a motorcycle chain be lubricated?
In general every 500–700 km and after every ride in the rain. The interval in the manual takes precedence; lubricate more often on dusty and wet roads.
How much chain slack should there be?
On most motorcycles a total of 20–35 mm. The exact value is given on the label on the swingarm or in the owner's manual.
Can I clean the chain with petrol?
No. Petrol, thinners and similar solvents damage O-ring and X-ring seals. Use a chain cleaner suitable for sealed chains.
Can engine oil be used instead of chain lube?
It is not recommended. Engine oil does not cling to the chain, is flung off while riding and collects dirt. Use an oil or spray made for chains.